“This movement was kind of born here,” he says, stating that Walking Fish may have been the first contemporary venture in the nation to unite coastal fishermen to bring fresh catch to interested inland consumers who subscribe to weekly deliveries. Its success led to other thriving businesses, notably Raleigh-based Locals Seafood. Greenberg credits the Triangle for being more savvy about sustainable seafood than much of the nation, thanks in large part to the Walking Fish CSF (community supported fishery), which began in 2009 at Duke University’s Nicholas School of the Environment before taking its current structure in 2011. “To me, the answer is clear that we need to support the work of local fishermen.”
“Do we want to outsource our fish, buying from countries that don’t have good regulations or good environmental stewardship around aquaculture? Or do we want to pay a little bit more to responsible fishmongers by doing something that is good for the local economy and good for the overall environment we’re trying to protect?” he says. Today, buying from fishmongers with relationships to fishermen who respect regulations that have improved conditions in the U.S.and avoiding seafood grown in places that harm the environment by destroying mangrove forests and using bycatch for feedis good for the whole world, he says. Greenberg acknowledges that media scrutiny rightly fell on some fishermen in the 1980s and ’90s because of overfishing at-risk species. “But that circle of concern needs to be widened to include the coast and working waterfronts and fishermen.” Know your farmer, know your food,” says Greenberg, a featured speaker June 5 and 6 at the upcoming three-day Farm to Fork event, which celebrates local growers, providers and chefs. “People typically have thought of local food as land food. Author of American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood, which will be re-issued Tuesday in paperback, Greenberg says choosing fish from local waters not only delivers health and environmental benefits but also supports the fishermen who strive to ensure the long term sustainability of fisheries. Paul Greenberg wants more consumers to learn not only how to recognize locally caught fish, but why purchasing it is so important. The best of INDY Week’s fiercely independent journalism about the Triangle delivered straight to your inbox.
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